By Jim on Monday, September 5, 2011
I love the fact that we can go out in the ocean and ride swell, the fact we can go so fast without paddling hard, is just so much fun.
I went for a paddle on Sunday and found that I was surfing these swells, that were taking me so fast, but I wasn't really paddling. I took a quick look at my GPS and found I was sitting between 19-24kms per hour. So I just kept doing what I was doing, i was enjoying myself so much.
As I was paddling I found myself with some sort of guilt that I was going fast yet I was not even close to getting tired. This made me think that it is true you can use the ocean and swell to go fast if you surf right. The key is to do the right amount of strokes at the right time.
So when is the right time, and how many should I do?
The right time to work hard and fast with your strokes is when you feel the tail of the ski lift, quick hard strokes on the catch will accelerate the ski onto the runner, now if you look left and right, you will see that the swell is steeper on one side, if you slightly guide your ski onto the steepest part of the swell, you find the boat will go faster and link you to the next runner. I constantly look side ways to see where the swell is steepest so I can surf to that side, I try as hard as I can to never nose dive. When you nose dive the ski losers speed but also puts you in the troff of the next swell. This is where most people use up all their engery, trying to pull themselves out of the troff.This requires alot of strength and burns lots of energy.
How do I know I'm doing this?
It's that feeling you get when you look at your paddling parterns and they are doing it easy, you start to say, this is s***, I never get the runners, I worked to hard today, I'm so tired. Just relax and let one swell go, reposition yourself and go again. Over your 1hr race or paddle, missing one or two swells won't hurt you.
The thing that is hardest for people to understand is the fact that they can be going fast and not working that hard, they feel guilty.
You don't have to feel like this, you should always feel the craft moving fast, that is the best feeling of all.
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